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This is installment two of a February 2004 visit at Vignoble Gasnier in Chinon. If you missed part one, please see On the Farm in Chinon with Fabrice Gasnier . Our walk through the vineyards and tour of the Cravant Les Coteaux hillsides complete, we headed to Fabrices cellar and winery to learn what happens indoors and to sample what he had wrought from the last couple of vintages. Gasniers winery is dominated by cement vats, which Fabrice prefers to steel for their slight oxygen permeability. All vats are temperature controlled, with all primary and most malolactic fermentation conducted in cement. The couple of stainless steel tanks in evidence are used only for assemblage and short-term holding. All fruit is de-stemmed and sorted prior to being crushed in a small vertical press. Following natural malolactic fermentation, the wines are left alone, saving for some occasional batonage if deemed necessary. read more »
I love my job; its pretty hard not to. I spend most days reading about and tasting new wines and then figuring out how best to share them with you as tasting notes on K&Ls website and, alongside our knowledgeable staff, through our newsletter. But perhaps the biggest reason I love my job, is for the chance to learn more about wines that Ive never heard of or had previously considered out of reach, like the famed first-growth, Chteau Margaux. Last weekend K&L hosted Chteau Margauxs managing director, Paul Pontallier, Margaux business manager Aurelien Valance and Pauls son Thibaut Pontallier for an incredible dinner at Masas in San Francisco and an in-store tasting at K&L Hollywood. While I didnt have the chance to make it up north for the Masas Dinner, I did break away from the computer long enough to attend the tasting at our Hollywood store. Our guests drove straight from the airport to the K&L tasting, where they were greeted by wine-lovers already excited by the evenings first pour, the 2004 Pavillon Blanc, Margaux ($59.99) . This high-scoring wine (92-95 points Tanzer; 93 points Parker and Spectator) is 100% sauvignon blanc. Elegant and luscious with notes of melon, citrus, lemon zest and hay with a streak of minerals, the wine was viscous and honeyed mid-palate with the depth-of-flavor and complexity you would expect from Chteau Margaux. Glasses of wine in-hand, the trio relaxed and worked into the crowd, mingling with the guests and answering their questions about the wines. Then, after a brief introduction by Bordeaux buyer and K&L co-owner Clyde Beffa Jr, Paul took center stage to talk about the history of the Chteau and the wines we were tasting. What struck me most was his humility. Here is a man, at the helm of one of the worlds most renowned wineries, talking about what a privilege it was to carry on the tradition of this great estate, to work to create better and better wines each vintage, to express the incredible terroir that what discovered centuries ago. The Pavillon Blanc and Pavillon Rouge are the Chteaus second wine, Paul explained, made to allow Chteau Margaux to be very selective of which fruit makes it into their first wine, to make it exceptional. But the winery also producers a third wine, he explained, which allows Margaux to make an exemplary second wine. Affordable and a bit more approachable in its youth, we tasted the 2003 Pavillon Rouge (already sold out) and the beautiful 2004 Pavillon Rouge, Margaux ($54.99) , which I loves for the violet, chocolate and menthol aromas that blended so seamlessly with the cassis and black cherry notes. Lots of black fruit on the palate, the oak was incredibly well-integrated and the wine elegant and impeccably well-balanced. A very pretty wine! We finished with the utterly gorgeous, 93 point (Spectator and Parker) 2004 Chteau Margaux, Margaux ($269.00) . Sandwiched between the incredible 2003 and 2005 vintages, I think this wine really hasnt gotten its due. Like the quiet, shy child that has plenty to say when her fingers tickle the piano keys, the 2004 Margaux is subtle and elegant, revealing complexity with each swirl. Raspberries, blueberries, purple flowers, cassis, anise and smoke lead to a palate framed by velvety, round tannins. Outstanding. After Pauls address, he again joined the crowd, answering a variety of questions and occasionally waxing poetic about the amazing wines he was in town representing. All and all a great experience for all who attended (including me). Look at all these happy, smiling peopleproof that you dont have to work in the wine business to enjoy the same great opportunities! Dont miss out on another event, bookmark K&Ls local events page and sign up for our email alerts , too. Leah Greenstein
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One of the greatest joys in my life remains the feeling I get when stumbling upon a small winery whose name rings no bells, but who produces excellent wines. I don't know why this is, exactly, but it has replaced the childish joy I used to experience as a young boy when finding a small crystal on a hike, or setting a new personal record for stone skipping on a pond.
Little wineries with high quality wines are like buried treasure, I guess, but these days my goal is not to
hoard but to share as widely as possible.
Which brings me to my latest find: Cooper-Garrod Vineyards, a 3,000 case production winery nestled in the hills above Saratoga, CA. I discovered this winery as I have several others -- at a trade tasting, moving from one table to the next. I make a point to taste wineries that I have never heard of at such events, especially when the tasting is a manageable size. read more »
Alamos 2006 Malbec Mendoza Seleccion (Catena) $11.95
Wine Tasting Notes - WA 90pts. The Alamos Seleccion Malbec presents a deeply dark violet color with blackish tones. The nose is full of ripe black fruits with floral tones and touches of leather, vanilla and spice. The mouthfeel is full read more »